Two More Castles, Two Long Train Rides, and Dresden

Dear Friends,

We have arrived in Dresden!

We had a great time exploring the Rhine, although it was a little disconcerting to be so isolated from the outside world (no internet access). I’m not sure which I missed more: internet or washing machine. It was not easy trying to keep up, at least to some extent, with laundry when we didn’t have a washing machine. And, our clothing was getting quite dirty as we explored castle after castle, sometimes walking for a very long time in the woods.

But, we had a delightful time. On Tuesday, despite the drizzle, we explored two castles. First, we explored Rheinstein Castle, two train stops from our sleepy little German town plus a rather long walk along the bike path that runs along the bank of the Rhine.

We were practically the only ones there. The castle is quite high up, built into a cliff overlooking the Rhine. The kids, of course, liked getting as high up as possible. I, on the other hand, spent most of my time not quite so high up in the tower, yelling at John and his father to be careful.

After exploring the castle, we found a great wooded path to another castle not far away (about a mile). Germany has an excellent network of hiking trails, which are generally well marked. Here's Joe consulting the map.

Margaret was eager to climb the steep path and walk the lonely wooded trail from Rheinstein Castle to Reichenstein Castle—NOT! Oh, how that girl can complain. We’ve had to exact penalties. She gets three “free” complaints per adventure. After that, we deduct from her pocket money. So far, the system has worked pretty well, although we may have to penalize for moaning as well (not to mention making excessively dramatic facial expressions of misery). Margaret misses the posh, posh traveling life of the QM2. But, we also can’t wait to hear how Margaret tells these stories when we get home. We are absolutely, positively sure that she will claim that it was HER idea to climb to the top of the ridge to travel the path in the woods from one castle to another.

Reichenstein Castle was fascinating. There is a hotel there and a restaurant and, then, in the main part of the castle, there is a “museum.” It really isn’t much of a museum. It is more a display of castle stuff, including lots and lots and lots of tiny antlers belonging to some poor, small animal that people in castles seem to like to hunt. Could there really be a jackalope? Anyway, it was possible to get pretty high up into one of the towers and that was cool. Here's Margaret displaying one of her rare smiles:

Although Joseph started to show signs of going “castle crazy” (he wanted to squeeze in yet one more castle that day), the kids and I resisted and demanded to go back to Bacharach. [I'm sure I could have hiked the 14 km from Burg Reichenstein to Bacharach — I don't know why they were complaining! — ed.] When we got back, Joe worked on his column. The kids played. And I fell asleep at the kitchen table. [I wish I had taken a picture — ed.]

When I woke up, the kids and I gathered supplies at the food store. Then, it was off to sample some of the local wine. We had been looking at grapes far too long not to try a full sampling. We headed down the street and tried a wine “carousel.” We tried six wines, from slightly sweet to very sweet. Very delicious. Can’t wait to host a reisling party when we get home!!!

We also sampled some local sausage. Even John tried some.

Then, it was off to have some real dinner at the flat and then lots and lots of packing.

In all of our exploring of castles, John developed a rating scale. Castles in some state of ruin scored higher. John really doesn’t like any castles (or any tourist attraction) that requires a guided tour. His favorite castle was Rheinfels. His least favorite, Burg Eltz (sorry, Rick Steves).

Here are Margaret’s thoughts on Burg Eltz: “At Eltz Castle you get a good view on why being in the middle of the forest is a good thing. [Burg Eltz is indeed in the middle of the forest; we walked 90 minutes from the nearest train station.] First of all, you barely get attacked, Napoleon can’t get his lazy bum out of his chair and go attack you and you get scenic scenery. The hike to Burg Eltz is a long one, but it’s worth it. You get scenic views of the overlooking forest. The inside is very beautiful and old.”

So, now we are in Dresden. We are staying in a very nice hotel, with adjoining rooms, attached to the Dresden World Trade Center and a small mall! We have great internet access, but alas, still no washing machine (no laundry room for guests; we can send out, but the hotel charges by the “piece”!). As has become our mantra in all such things: It’s all part of the adventure!

We ate last night at a Saxon/Bohemian restaurant in a restored cellar in an old market. It may have been a Dresden version of an Applebee’s. Joe, Margaret and John all had some form of schnitzel. I had chicken wrapped in bacon, because, well, shouldn’t everything be wrapped in bacon (or, breaded and fried)?? Yes, it’s all part of the adventure!

We hope all is well where you are.

Auf Wiedersehn!
Susan